new Flexible Front End Support

One of the problems which has constantly confronted automobile engineers is to prevent Engine vibration being transmitted to the chassis. The latest Model ” A ” improvement along this line is the introduction of a flexible front end support for the engine. The upper half of this support is bolted to the cylinder front cover. The lower half of the support is sup- ported on the cross member by flexible springs (see Fig. 597). These springs allow the engine a free vertical motion, yet hold it within definite limits. The result is an engine support that is simple in design and operation and frees the car from unpleasant vibration periods.

The support is standard on all new cars and trucks and can be easily installed on cars not so equipped by proceeding as follows:

The list price of the support complete with parts is $1.65. The labor charge to the customer for installation must not exceed $6.00.

Instructions for Installing:

1. Drain water from radiator
2. Remove hood.
3. Take out mat and floor boards.
4. Disconnect either the battery cable or ground connector from battery.
5. Remove the two accelerator bracket cap screws.
6. Unhook accelerator to carburetor rod, also throttle control rod and lift off accelerator bracket.
7. Remove the two bolts from both engine rear supports
8. Remove both engine pans
9. Disconnect starter switch push rod and slide rod back out of way.
10. Remove front splash shield.
11. Disconnect cut-out, horn and head- lamp wires and remove radiator.
12. Disconnect carburetor adjusting rod from carburetor and loosen the two exhaust pipe bolts.
13. Remove the two cylinder front cover screws shown in Fig. 598.
14. Remove one of the front spring clips, loosen the other and remove starting crank bearing.
15. Screw off starting crank ratchet nut.
16. Jack up engine sufficiently high to permit withdrawing fan pulley over top of front cross member (To prevent damaging oil pan, place a small board between top of jack and oil pan.)
17. Saw off cross member at dotted line shown in Fig. 598.
18. Enlarge the 1/2 inch hole in front cross member to 3/4 inch Important: Before enlarging the 1/2 inch hole make certain that the center of the hole is exactly 1 inch ahead of the rear flange of the front cross member (see Fig. 599) if not, hole must be filed to suit. After enlarging the hole to 3/4 inch be sure to remove all burrs and cuttings and thoroughly clean out cross member. This is important.
19. Slip leather washer A-6033 over threaded end of support stud, sliding washer back on stud until flat side of washer rests against flat side of support.
20. Place a little grease on the bottom of spring A-6031 and position it in bottom of cross member, lining up hole in spring with hole in cross member. The side of the spring which has the raised spring retainers is placed next to cylinder front cover.
21. Bolt support to cylinder front cover by means of two lock washers A-22330 and two cap screws A-21240.
22. Replace fan pulley.
23. Lower engine sufficiently so that springs A-6032 can be slipped over the two bosses on the support and the raised retainers on the flat spring.
24. Next lower front end of engine down as far as it will go, making sure that neck of leather washer A-6033 lines up with hole in flat spring.
25. Slip brass bushing A-6034 over threaded end of motor support stud which extends through cross member, making sure that neck of bushing enters hole in cross member.
26. Place spring A-6035 over stud, then screw on castle nut, running the nut down sufficiently far to permit locking it in place with cotter key.
27. Next replace the four rear motor supprt screws. If it is necessary to jack up the engine in order to line up the cap screw holes in the rear engine supports, apply the jack under the front radius rod ball cap. After installing the rear motor support screws check the new motor support to make certain that the parts are in exact relationship to each other as shown in Fig 597. This is important. If the leather washer A-6033 is in contact with flat spring A-6031, or if coil springs are closed, one or both of these conditions will absolutely defeat the action of the support.
28. After tightening the two exhaust pipe clamp bolts, the relation of the front motor support parts should again be checked. This completes the installation of the support and the reassembling of the major parts. The balance of the job can now be built up in the regular way.
29. Before installing the engine pans, bend up the end of both pans as shown in Fig. 600, making sure that the edge of the pan which has been bent up clears front cross member.
30. After building up the job make certain there is at least YQ inch clearance between the arm on the universal joint housing cap and the center cross member (see Fig. 601). If there is not at least 1/16 inch clearance, it will be necessary to remove the cap and grind off a little stock from the arm until required clearance is obtained.

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remarks

If when the rear motor support arms are bolted to the engine the front support does not have from 1/64 to 3/64 clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, loosen the four bolts holding rear support bracket to motor, also loosen the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame. Next remove nut and spring and washer on lower end of support stud and jack up front end of motor approximately 3/8 inch. With the front end of the motor raised 3/8 inch, tighten the six small bolts which clamp rear support brackets to frame, then tighten the four bolts holding rear support brackets to engine, next lower front end of engine and reassemble spring, washer and nut. This should provide proper clearance between leather washer and flat spring.

If the lower coil spring is closed and there is excessive clearance between leather washer and top of flat spring, repeat the above operation with the exception that the rear end of the engine is jacked up 3/8 of an inch instead of the front end.