year: 1930

TRUCK FRONT CROSS MEMBER SUPPORT

A support somewhat similar to that used in present design No. 1 truck front cross members has been added to 1928-29 truck front cross members sold through service. This support is riveted in place. (See Fig. 1042.)

For 1928-29 trucks in service that are subjected to unusually severe service, a No. 1 cross member reinforcement A-5347-R has been released. In appearance this reinforcement is similar to a short spring leaf (see Fig. 1043). It is assembled to the top of the front spring with the ends of the reinforcement pointing upward so that the curve in the reinforcement will follow the contour of the front cross member.

It is necessary to use a new design front spring tie bolt A-534ti-R and a longer spring clip AA-5455-FR or GR after installing an A-5347-R reinforcement.

INCREASED LIFTING POWER FOR HAND HOIST DUMP BODY

Fig. 1044 shows the double reduction gears now being used in the hand dump body. These gears replace the former design pinion and crank support used in the original single gear reduction hand hoist.

The additional gear reduction gives approximately three times as much lifting power, with the same effort at the crank.

Should an owner of an early type hand dump body desire additional lifting power the new reduction gears can be easily installed without any drilling, as holes are already provided in the sub-frame which permit the easy installation of the new unit.

Wheel carrier assembly strengthened.

Changes have been made int he A-1379-B and A-1380-B wheel carrier assemblies which considerably strengthen these parts. The thickness of the body flange, also the lower part of the wheel flange has been changed from 4/16” to 1/4” and a solid boss added. (See Figs. 1023 and 1024.) To compensate for the change in design a wheel flange stuff A-1449-C is now being used in the lower part of the flange in place of the A-1449-BR bolt. The old design A-1449-BR spare wheel carrier bolt lower will be held for repairs.

After present stocks of old style A-20935-S1 bolts are exhausted use the new design bolt. This bolt can be distinguished from the old design by the difference in length. (See Figs. 1023 and 1024.)

Installing Bushings

A small line is marked in one end of each of the above bushings. (See Fig. 1025.) When installing always insert the marked end of the bushing into the opening, then press the bushing in place.

PEDAL BUSHINGS LENGTHENED

The length of the A-7508-B pedal bushings have been changed from 15/16 to 1” This increase in length eliminates the lubrication space between the bushings after they are assembled in the pedal.

When replacing 15/16” bushings with the 1” long bushings in pedals having lubricator fittings assembled it will be necessary for dealers to drill a 19/64” hole in the bushings through the lubricator fitting hole.

A-16025-AR FENDER IRON CHANGED FROM A STAMPING TO A FORGING

Front fender iron A-16025-AR has been made stronger by changing it from a stamping to a drop forged design. When replacing a stamped design fender iron with the present drop forged type, use bolts A-20969 for bolting to frame and A-20906-Sl for bolting to headlamp support.

BENDIX DRIVE SERVICE SUGGESTIONS

Failure of Pinion Gear to Mesh

If stepping on the starter motor merely results in spinning of the starter motor, the trouble is caused by failure of the pinion gear to mesh with the flywheel ring gear. This condition is usually the result of gummy or rusted Bendix screw shaft threads. The remedy is to thoroughly clean the pinion gear and threaded shaft portion with kerosene, then carefully dry the parts and re-oil with a very light grade of oil. Do not use even a medium oil or any kind of grease inasmuch as such lubricants congeal in the threads in cold weather and will again result in failure of the pinion gear to properly mesh with the fly- wheel.

Lubricants

Lubrication of the Bendix drive is not necessary unless it is noted that the drive is rusted or exceedingly dry, or unless the drive has been cleaned with kerosene.

Care in Starting

In starting, the spark should always be retarded to prevent a back kick occurring and the possibility of the pinion gear jamming with the flywheel ring gear should the engine back kick;’ Should the engine fail to run at the first attempt to start, wait for a second be- fore again depressing the starter button, thus assuring that both engine and starting motor have come to rest and thus avoiding pinion engagement while the engine might be back- rocking. Distorted Bendix springs and broken Bendix screws are usually the result of engaging of the pinion gear under such conditions.

Reassembly of Bendix Drive

In reassembling the Bendix Drive to the armature shaft of the starting motor, use a little graphite grease or oil on the starting motor shaft and under the Bendix shaft. After reassembly and after tightening the spring screws, compress the gear and shaft portion of the drive longitudinally and make certain that it freely returns to its original length or position.

Hood Clip

When installing a hood clip assembly A-16750-B be sure to install it with the face of the hood clip bracket towards the hood. (See Fig. 1027)

Truck Gear Shift Housing Cap Threaded

To lessen any possibility of an oil leak occur- ring around the truck gear shift housing cap, the cap is now screwed to the housing instead of being pinned as formerly. (See Fig. 1028.)

The pin which formerly held the cap to the housing has been eliminated on the new design and the trunnion shortened so that it does not project through the cap.

The old design cap and pins will be held for repairs.

Change in Truck Roller Bearing Sleeve

At the time of changing the location of the 1⁄8” pipe tap hole and adding an additional lubricator fitting in the AA-4505-F torque tube assembly it was also necessary to place an oil hole in the AA-4655 roller bearing sleeve, as the new location of the lubricator fitting comes directly over the sleeve.

The old design roller bearing sleeve had one 1⁄4″ hole. This hole was used only for removing or installing the sleeve. The new sleeve is provided with two 5/16″ holes. (See Fig. 1029) This permits assembling either end of the sleeve into the housing so that the lubricator hole in the sleeve is in direct line with the lubricator hole in the housing. The second hole can then be used for removing or installing the sleeve in service.

The old style sleeves with the 1⁄4″hole must not be used in AA-4505-F housings having the two lubricator fittings, as the old design sleeve would obstruct the lubricator hole in its new location.

The new design sleeve having the two 5/16” holes can be used in all AA-4505-F housings and will replace old style sleeves when that stock is exhausted.

Interchangeable Lock Cylinders

A change has been made in the lock cylinders in the ignition and handle locks used with Tudor, A-panel, AA-panel and DeLuxe De- livery. Interchangeable lock cylinders are also used in the locks in the new Victoria Coupe and Special Delivery.

Cars and trucks equipped with interchange- able lock cylinders use but one key. That is the same key operates both the ignition and door handle locks.

To include the tire lock in this group, tire locks will be shipped less the cylinders. Dealers will carry blank cylinders in stock.

When a new tire lock is sold by a dealer the dealer will take a blank cylinder out of stock and form the tumblers to the key which comes with the car. This can be easily done in the following manner.

Insert key into blank cylinder. If key binds do not force it into the cylinder-lightly tap end of key and it will slip into place. Insert lock cylinder into opening in special pliers (52-2797), see Fig. 1033, pushing the cylinder all the way down until shoulder of cylinder rests against face of pliers. Squeeze plier handles until it is possible to turn the cylinder in the pliers. The hole in the pliers acts as a gauge. When the cylinder can be turned while the plier handles are being squeezed it indicates the tumblers are correctly formed. After forming tumblers, insert lock cylinder into lock.

removing Lock Cylinder

To remove a lock cylinder in the new handle locks, insert key into lock cylinder. Place tool 52-2794 over key making sure that the pin in the tool enters the small opening at the side of the cylinder. (See Fig. 1034.) By pressing downward, the lock cylinder will snap out of the lock. The old design lock cylinders are not removable. The new lock cylinders can be easily distinguished from the old design by a small hole at the side of the cylinder. (See Fig. 1035.) The 52-2797 special pliers and 52-2794 removing tool can be obtained from branches at the following list prices and are subject to dealers’ regular parts discount:

52-2797 – – – – – – – $1.25

5Z-2794 – – – – – – – .05

Key Record

The lock keys are numbered serially. When delivering a new car to an owner the dealer must keep a record of each key number so that in case of loss, a new key can be obtained. The car owner should also be instructed to make a record of his key number.

This is important — as the door lock cylinders are not numbered.

KEEPS DUST OUT OF DISTRIBUTOR

To lessen any possibility of dust getting into the distributor, the height of the locating pin slot in the distributor body was reduced approximately 5/64”, also the 3/32” radius undercut at each corner of the plate lever slot was removed (See Fig. 1036).

LIGHTING SWITCH HANDLE AND HORN SWITCH ASSEMBLIES

Due to the difference in the lengths and the designs of the lighting switch handle and horn switch assemblies used in 1929 and 1930 jobs, care must be used not to confuse or mix these parts.

By measuring the length of the tubing, and noting the design of the handle, these parts can be easily distinguished as shown in Fig. 1037.

CHANGES IN STEERING GEAR PARTS

Sometime ago, prior to the steering worm change mentioned in the August Bulletin, a change was made in the steering gear worm bearing. The bearing was changed from a cylindrical 9 roller to a tapered 13 roller bearing. To correspond with the tapered bearing, it was necessary to change the angle of the worm at both the upper and lower ends, and also to change the angle of the bearing cup and the adjusting sleeve.

Measured from the center line, the old worm and shaft assembly, A-3524-CR, had an angle of 25° at both the upper and lower ends of the worm, whereas on the present worm, the angle is 15°. To correspond with these changes, it was necessary to change the angle of the bearing cup and the adjusting sleeve. Measured from the center line, the angle of the present bearing cup and sleeve is 20°, whereas on the old cup and sleeve it was 25°.

Due to the changes in angles, the old and the present design worms, bearing cups, ad- justing sleeves and bearings cannot be used interchangeably. If calls are received for an old design worm assembly having a 25° angle, it will be necessary to supply the new design worm bearing cup,. adjusting sleeve, and roller bearing assembly, as the old design worms were not held for repairs, due to the small service demand for this item.

The old style bearing cup A-3552-DR and the old style adjusting sleeve A-3553-CR and bearing A-3571-AR are held for repairs.

K. R. Wilson is making up tools for the removal and installation of bearing cup in steering gear housing.